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High Pressure Laminate

high pressure laminate from an angle high pressure laminate stile base high pressure laminate zamak hardware high pressure laminate color chart

Quality Laminate Faced Partitions

When budget considerations are critical, high pressure laminate (HPL) partitions can offer the most sensible option. These sturdy, resin-infused industrial grade particle board panels and doors are CLASS B fireproof (ATSM E 84) and shown to be more impact and scratch-resistant than metal. The standard version has a core that's made of particleboard and not recommended for high moisture areas. If you have a high moisture area, Solid Phenolic Core or Solid Plastic (HDPE) is a better choice. There is an optional steel core/welded leveling device available for every configuration. Which will add durability, however at an added cost.

HPL stalls come in a variety of finishes that include premium high-gloss colors and faux-wood patterns. It will not be difficult to find a color or style that will fit in with your facility or institution. These bathroom partitions are noted for their totally concealed hardware on the exterior and sleek look that always appears clean.

Reinforcement On Every Panel

Inside the cubicles, each HPL door is securely fastened with chrome-plated polished Zamak hinges and latches. These latches are easily operated with one hand and also allow for rapid exterior access in case of emergency. The units have a variety of mounting options but all can be securely attached together with strong plated brackets and bolted to the floor with stainless steel wedge floor anchors. The HPL panels meet ATSM D 6578-00 for their graffiti-resistance, with 9 out of 9 marks removed in a testing environment; for comparison, only 5 marks were cleaned from a competing metal surface. These Classic Series designs promise graffiti removal that won’t leave a trace, ensuring an always-new appearance.

In other testing, our HPL partitions outperformed metal counterparts in two more important categories. They resist damage from impact, having been shown to deflect a force of 3 inch-lb. spherical weights dropped on their face, whereas the metal withstood just 2 inch-lbs. When it comes to scratch resistance, HPL was able to withstand a 10 KG load applied with a scraping device, but it only took 3 KG of force to mar the metal partition.

Backed by a Two-Year Warranty

Your HPL partitions are strong and resilient. That’s one of the reasons they come with a limited two-year warranty. This protects the buyer against breakage, corrosion, or defects in materials or workmanship. During this warranty period, properly installed and maintained dividers will be repaired or replaced at no extra charge. If you're looking for information on redeeming your warranty, please contact us via phone, email or fax and well walk you through the process. HPL partitions also allow architects, builders, corporations, and institutions to be more environmentally conscious in their construction projects. These panels consist of recycled content and include rapidly renewing materials along with other eco-friendly design enhancements. In addition, all their bathroom partition hardware is made from 50-70% recycled steel. That means when you purchase these HPL stalls you can qualify for LEED credits, benefiting you and the community.

35 Standard Colors Available

Want to match your high pressure laminate stalls with your newly painted bathroom? With 35 standard colors, that shouldn't be hard, take a look at our color chart brochures below and see for yourself!


Quick Shipping

Quick Ship Information

Those who need their materials quickly can pick through High Pressure Laminate's quick ship program. High Pressure Laminate toilet stalls boast an impressive selection of 35 colors for quick shipment, all of which can be found on the color chart.

All of these colors have an impressive lead time of two days.

We have five colors listed on our website, all of which fall under the quick ship program:

Designer White (D354-60), Antique White (1572-60), Natural Almond (D30-60), Grey (1500-60), and Black (1595-60).

Quick Facts

Click image to see a side by side comparison of all toilet partition materials.


High pressure laminate toilet partitions can hold a fresh appearance for a number of years if the material is maintained properly.


Keeping a high pressure laminate toilet partition in pristine condition can be done with ease. It's all a matter of using the proper cleaning agents so there is no chance of a chemical reaction to dull or cause a hue on the surface. As well when and how to use other alternative methods of dirt removal. By following our steps to toilet partition upkeet, you'll be able to keep your bathroom stalls looking as good as new months and years after your original purchase!

Cleaning Your Bathroom Partitions

  • The methods used to clean the bathroom stall differ on the type of soil found on a surface.


  • No, it will start to peel and swell, since it contains wood, it's not recommended for high moisture areas


  • No, as mentioned above, they are not designed for prolonged contact with water


  • If fingerprints, smudges, or other sediment is found on the restroom partitions's surface, a mild cleaning solution can be applied to effectively remove it. If the surface is smooth, use of a cloth or sponge is recommend; if the surface is textured, a soft brush will suffice. Rinse and dry thoroughly for maximum effect.

  • For tougher soiling like greased soil, oil, crayon, or even lipstick: use a mild degreaser or general purpose cleaner. Wet a cloth, sponge, or soft bristled brush with the cleaner of choice and apply it to the soiled area. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

  • If the affected area has soiling that is extremely difficult to tend to through the previous two means, like water marking or scaling, use of a stronger cleaning agent is required. Bathroom cleaners with acetic acid are the optimal choice for removal of these stains — use a cloth, sponge, or soft-bristled brush with the cleaning solution on it, and rinse/dry completely.

  • If a high pressure laminate toilet stall's surface has been marked by graffiti, bathroom cleaners or other cleaning solutions will likely not do an acceptable job removing it. For situations where this has occurred, it is advised to use a special graffiti remover. Apply to the affected surface by spraying or wiping the remover on, while using a cloth or sponge. Rinse and dry completely.

  • We've also create a blog post, specifically written to assist you in cleaning your restroom stalls the correct way so that no damage will be done to them through the cleaning process. View the section " High Pressure Laminate Toilet Partition Cleaning Instructions".

    Have some more questions about high pressure laminate toilet stalls? Visit our " Frequently Asked Questions " section.


    High Pressure Laminate has various levels of privacy available, any questions you may have about privacy options for this material, call or email us about it.



    High pressure laminate toilet partitions carry a reasonable resistance to scratches and forceful impact. In addition to strength against physical damage, these carry a resilience against graffiti. Markings left by various types of graffiti can be effectively removed through a graffiti remover.


    If a specific color is required for a project, some bathroom partitions can fall short due to their inability to be customized. Never will this ever be the issue with high pressure laminate — with well over 400 colors to be chosen, any desired color schemes can be fulfilled.


    Contractors/owners can receive a considerable amount of points for utilizing a high pressure laminate bathroom partition in their project. All of the industrial-grade particle boards found in these bathroom stalls have 100% pre-consumer recycled content, and the material itself is 22% pre-consumer recycled. Additionally, the laminate is rapidly renewable and low-emitting by LEED standards.


    These bathroom stalls are compliant to ASTM E84 standards, meaning they have a resistance to fire. Based on these standards, high pressure laminate ranks as a CLASS B material. This means that in case of fire, the toilet partitions will spread flame and smoke noticeably less compared to other materials.


    When project timing is dire, hope is not lost. Within the immense 400+ color repertoire is a smaller subset of 35 colors that have a lead time of only two to three business days (not including transit time to the consumer). Unreasonable project deadline? No such thing.


    As another member of the "economy" line of bathroom dividers, it serves a great purpose in being a largely viable solution for a number of situations. As mentioned above, owners/contractors can get their material exceptionally quickly & it is a highly customizable, environmentally friendly material that is fire-resistant, graffiti-resistant, and vandal-resistant. What more could you ask for?


    Tools Needed

    Before installing a powder coated steel bathroom partition, ensure that you have the following tools:

    • Chalk line
    • Plumb-bob
    • Masking tape
    • Tape measure
    • Center punch
    • Electric or battery operated drill
    • Drill bits: .166", 3⁄16", 5⁄16", 3⁄8", and 7⁄16"
    • Screwdrivers/screwdriver bits (#2 and #3)
    • Pin-in-head Torx screwdriver (supplied)
    • Shims
    • Adjustable Supports (11⁄2" - 12")
    • Level
    • Wrench; adjustable or 9⁄16"
    • Hack saw
    • Hammer
    • Safety Glasses


    Assess the designed layout and determine the distances of the gaps, and stall depth — measure from the back wall to the depth of the stall as indicated on the drawings, and accommdate for the cumulative total of the depth and gap together to obtain the stile centerline. Using the side wall and stile centerline locations, measure the appropriate dimensions for floor and ceiling anchors. A standard overhead braced stile centerline between the floor anchor and stile edge is 1".


    Headrail Braced Floor Anchors Drill a hole with a diameter of 5⁄16" that has a minimum depth of 13⁄4". Any foreign material, debris, or other contents within the hole need to be removed.

    Insert plastic anchors into the drilled holes, and place shoe retainer brackets at each hole location as well. Then, set the floor L-bracket inside of and on top of each shoe retainer. #14 x 13⁄4" screws are used to hold the L-brackets and retainers in place — however, the screws should not be tightened. All screws should remain loose enough to adjust the L brackets such that they can be moved inside of the stile brackets for measurement purposes. Mark locations of L-brackets and drilled hole locations, then remove the stiles and tighten the floor screws to secure accordingly.

    Floor Anchors

    Begin by drilling a 3⁄8" hole that has a minimum depth of 2", ensuring that any debris or loose material has been removed for placement of a wedge anchor.

    The threaded rod is to be inserted into the mounting hole. A few extra washers are provided; use the extra washers to ensure that the flat shoe retainer resides immediately above the surface of the finished floor. Add and tighten a hex nut above the shoe retainer to secure it to the floor. Then, a second hex nut and a flat washer are to be added, with the flat washer sitting immediately below the leveling bar of the stile. A third hex nut, flat washer, and lock washer are also to be installed to the anchor, but installation of these hardware are advised to be done after the stile has been appropriately placed on the anchor bolts.

    Repeat this process for any ceiling anchors that are used in the project.

    Ceiling Anchors

    It is important that all hardware and mounting are fully tightened and correctly placed in a ceiling hung installation.

    The installation of a ceiling-hung configuration begins with the drilling of a 7⁄16" diameter hole through the structured beam. Insert a threaded rod through the hole in the beam — a 6" long rod is typicaly supplied, but longer rods can be obtained through external means.

    Place a bevel washer and lock washer over the rod, then screw on a hex nut; these will sit above the structural beam and allow the threaded rod to be adjusted to plumb once the ceiling anchor is adequately constructed. Immediately beneath the structural beam, a second hex nut and a spacer are added. Next, place a flat shoe retainer and a third hex nut immediately below the finished ceiling. At this point, a fourth hex nut and two flat washers should be set on the rod, with the first flat washer sitting just above the stile's leveling bar, and the second flat washer sitting below the stile's leveling bar. Finally, add a split lock washer and hex nut beneath the second flat washer. Ensure that all hardware is tightened.

    Repeat this process for any ceiling anchors that are used in the project.


    The installation of brackets and posts is dependent on the type of hardware and the configuration of the restroom stalls.

    Chrome Hardware:

    Measure the locations of centerlines for all of the stiles and panels used (refer to shop drawings), and mark them appropriately. Place wall brackets plumb, 1" from the panel center lines and mark the mounting hole locations. Then, use the #19 (.166") drill bit to create 2" deep holes into wall's back (ensure that the location has appropriate wall backing), and secure brackets with #12 x 2" torx screws.

    Stainless Steel Hardware:

    Measure the locations of centerlines for all of the stiles and panels used with reference to shop drawings, and mark them appropriately. Wall brackets should be plumb, and 1" from the panel's center lines. The hole locations of the mounting should be marked. Use the #19 (.166") drill bit to create 2" deep holes into the wall's back, and secure the brackets with #12 x 2" torx screws.

    Once the initial installation of hardware has been completed, begin preparing for the installation of the wall post. Determine the orientation of the wall post, making sure that the outside edge of the wall post is inline with the outside edge of the keeping stile. The bottom mounting hole of the wall post is to sit 131⁄4" off above the floor.


    Prior to the positioning of the panels, set the adjustable supports to hold the panels 12 inches above the floor, then place the panels on the supports and line them up with the corresponding wall brackets (do not secure).

    Measure the centerlines for the three brackets on each stile and mark their locations. Mark the mounting hole locations as well. Create 3⁄16" diameter holes that are 3⁄4" deep for each bracket attached to the steel-core stiles. For any brackets that are attached to the edge of a stile, use a #19 (.166") drill bit to drill a 3⁄4" deep hole. Finally, secure the desired brackets with #12 x 3⁄4" Panel/Stile screws (supplied).


    Floor Anchored/Ceiling Hung

    Set the stiles on the the threaded anchor rods, and add a lock washer, flat washer, and third hex nut to every threaded rod. Do not tighten the hex nuts yet. Note: if a ceiling-hung configuration is being installed, then this has already been done.

    Holes are to be drilled into the panel, using the bracket as reference. Make sure the panel edge touches the screw heads in the stile brackets before drilling 3⁄16" diameter holes, 5⁄8" deep holes into the panel. Brackets will be fastened to panels with either #14 x 5⁄8" screws (chrome) or #12 x 3⁄4" if using stainless steel hardware. Use a level to ensure that the stiles and door openings are plumb and properly leveled — tighten hex nuts on the stile anchors and secure the panels using the appropriate screws (#14 x 5⁄8" or #12 x 3⁄4").

    Headrail Braced

    Insert leveling bolt into stile and rotate leveling bolt so that the stile's dimension is 825⁄16" from the top of the leveling bolt to the top of the stile. If the floor is not perfectly level, the stile height will need to be adjusted to accommodate. Mount the stile and insert #14 x 5⁄8" screws through the side of the stile bracket into the L-bracket on the floor; do not tighten. Make sure the panels are level and perfectly vertical before drilling 3⁄16" holes into the panel. Fasten the brackets to the panels with #14 x 5⁄8" screws (or #12 x 3⁄4" for stainless steel). Tighten stile bracket screws into the L-bracket on the floor.


    If project does not require installation of headrail braced bathroom partitions, skip to Step 7.

    Measure the distance of the wall to wall dimension, and subtract 1⁄4". Corner installations require the measurement of the distance between the wall and the outside stile edge, minus 1⁄8".

    Use the headrail's L-bracket as a guide for marking the location of the mounting holes that are in back of the front headrail and the wall. Drill 3⁄4" deep holes that are 3⁄16" in diameter, and then fasten the L-bracket to the stile using #12 x 7⁄16" screws. Then, drill 3⁄16" diameter holes with a depth of 2" into the wall. Fasten the L-bracket to the wall using #12 x 2" screws.


    Secure flanges into door notches using #10 x 1" screws, then measure and mark the location of the stile's mounting holes, using the hinge brackets as a reference. Drill four holes through the stile using a 1⁄4" drill bit. The hinge brackets need to be through-bolted using one-way screws and threaded sleeves.

    Mount the door; the hinge pin should be placed in the pre-drilled hole found at the top of the door. The closing position of the door can be changed by adjusting the cam on the lower hinge bracket. Once the desired position is set, tighten the hex nut to maintain the position. Mount any latches, keepers, and robe hooks.


    Find the shoe that appropriately corresponds to the width of the stile. The shoes will accommodate either 1" or 3⁄4" thick stiles — for stiles that are 1" thick, use a 3⁄16" wide flange return against the faces and stile edge. Open the shoe and slide it to the bottom of the stile to trap the flange under the shoe retainer. Close the shoe and align any holes, then install the flat head retaining screw to close the shoe.

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