Product / Info
Buy it once and forget about it
For those building or renovating projects that like the convenience and heartiness of polymer plastics and have a larger budget, solid plastic bathroom partitions are an excellent choice. These 1-inch solid HDPE plastic bathroom stalls are made in the U.S.A. and they are backed with one of the longest warranties in the industry ( 25 years ). Because of their lasting service and imperiousness to mildew or corrosion, solid plastic bathroom dividers often are the best choice for large stadiums or universities. They can be built for any fire rating and have three configuration options that are all compliant with the Americans with Disabilities Act. These bathroom partitions come in various fire ratings from Scranton Products and from Hadrian a Certified Class B fire rating.
Solid plastic bathroom stalls offer an array of colors from basic to bold. These include rich solids like burgundy and mocha as well as unique metallic sheens; even speckled mosaics such as gravel and sandcastle are possible. There are also five exclusive standard textures – these may also be combined, creating looks such as mahogany, shale, or titanium, adding another touch of distinction. These smart, adaptable restroom partitions can be customized and even engraved to perfectly match your facility’s look-and-feel. Solid plastic stalls have the color injected directly into the mold so they will never peel or need painting and can be power washed or steam cleaned without worry of deterioration.
These bathroom dividers are backed by a rock-solid 25-year guarantee, making them literally last for generations. Choose your partition hardware from plastic, aluminum, or stainless steel, knowing whatever you select is sure to look great and never let you down. Of course, these restroom stalls are tough enough for even the largest, liveliest crowds or athletic teams. Solid plastic bathroom partitions have been shown to be 59 times more resistant to impact than metal. Because the color is infused throughout, it’s excellent at hiding any scuffs or scratches that do somehow manage to get through. It also can withstand use or abuse from most common chemicals and cleaners as well as protect against vandalism from pen, paint, stickers, and markers.
Sustainability in Mind
They are also designed to reduce industrial waste and leave a small eco footprint. Since they haven’t been painted and will never need to be, there are no VOC emissions associated with their manufacture. These HDPE solid plastic toilet stalls are always manufactured with at least 25% recyclable materials and if you order them 100% post-consumer you can qualify your project for LEED credits. And when, or more likely if, you decide to retire your bathroom partitions, they are 100% recyclable as well.
Quick Ship Information
Even premium materials like Solid Plastic have the potential to be turned around quickly. Solid Plastic toilet stalls have five quick ship colors: Almond, Black, Gray, Linen, Mocha — all of which have a lead time of five days.
Quick shipment extends to all available mounting configurations.
Click image to see a side by side comparison of all bathroom partition materials.
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
These plastic-based toilet stalls present a few different methods of maintenance due to their material construction.
Solid plastic is an absolutely phenomenal material when it comes to maintenance. The construction of the high-density polyethylene is a continuous mold, unlike other bathroom stalls that have an outer shell/material with a differentiated material in the center. This gives Solid Plastic an incredible edge in durability and finished appearance.
If a cut or scratch is presented on the material, it can be repaired by burnishing the surface with a smooth or round object; apply light pressure to the damaged area using the aforementioned object, rubbing until it has sufficiently healed.
In general, cleaning is accomplished simply on a solid plastic restroom partition. Making maintenance a regular habit will keep upkeep costs low and reduce overall hassle in the long run.
We've also create a blog post, specifically written to assist you in cleaning your bathroom stalls the correct way so that no damage will be done to them through the cleaning process. View the section " Solid Plastic Toilet Partition Cleaning Instructions".
Have some more questions about solid plastic toilet dividers? Visit our " Frequently Asked Questions " section.
Solid Plastic has various levels of privacy available, any questions you may have about privacy options for this material, call or email us about it.
Unprecedented durability: a trooper in the world of bathroom partitions.
Just the material of solid plastic alone makes it stand out tremendously compared to other materials; it is the only one that has a solid composition from front to back, with no differentiated core in the middle. This makes it exceptionally strong as a bathroom partition material, and reduces the number of ways a restroom partition can become severely damaged.
Great design: sleek/modern colors and textures.
Customization is quite prevalent with solid plastic. A large number of colors are available for choice — in fact, there are various color collections to be browsed. That is not all: colors can be paired with one of five potential textures. This gives consumers more of a choice when planning out the appearance of their bathroom stalls.
Water-proof: drench with no concern.
A reiteration of the fine material used; solid plastic bathroom stalls are made with a material known as HDPE, or high-density polyethylene. This material not only has an unrivaled durability, but also is impermeable (not able to retain water). As a result of this characteristic, solid plastic bathroom partitions are highly resistant to moisture and/or mildew, making hose-down cleaning methods a very viable option.
Environmentally sound: the most responsible of all.
To those looking for a solution to environmentally sensitive projects, solid plastic toilet dividers are by far the best route to go. The utilization of them in projects assists in LEED certification: they contain anywhere from 25% to 100% post-industrial recycled high-density polyethylene, and are 100% recyclable themselves. There is no painting in the process of coloring solid plastic, which removes the issue of VOCs.
Fire-resistant: prepared for anything.
While not natively fire-resistant, solid plastic can be custom-manufactured with a material that is ATSM E84 CLASS B or ASTM E84 CLASS A fire-resistant. In the event of a fire, CLASS B compliant materials spread very minimal flame and smoke, and CLASS A compliant materials will spread no flame and smoke.
Low-maintenance: long-term cost efficiency.
It goes without saying that solid plastic partitions are absolutely built to take a massive beating, day in and day out. The cost of keeping them in brilliant condition is relatively low due to the simplicity in repair. Maintenance is almost always an easy job given that the material can be hosed down, and is also capable of being burnished in the event of visible cutting or scratching.
An unprecedented guarantee: rest assured.
If concern about solid plastic still exists after all of these great characteristics and perks, solid plastic comes with a guarantee that is simply unbeatable: a 25 year guarantee.
Manufacturer Supplied Instructions
- Chalk line
- Tape Measure
- Phillips-head Screwdriver
- Flat-head Screwdriver
- Adjustable Wrench
- Power Drill
- 5⁄16" Masonry bit
- 3⁄32", 5⁄32", and 1⁄4" Metal Bits
- T27 Torx Bit (supplied)
- 14" x 14" spacer
Step 1. Center lines
Begin by finding the center line of the pilasters — measure from the back of the wall to the stall's depth and subtract that measurement by 1⁄2". Draw a line at this location that runs parallel to the back wall. Then, create a mark on the side wall that is 70 inches off of the floor — this line gives the center line of the pilaster shoes and bracket connections.
Step 2. Side/Back Wall Brackets
Once the location of the side wall brackets has been established, marks will be created to indicate bracket locations (or pre-drilled hole locations). If continuous brackets are being used, make a single mark on the side wall line that resides 14 1⁄2" off of the ground. If stirrup brackets are being used, make three different marks on the side wall line, at 17", 42" and 66" off of the ground respectively. After the marks have been calculated, hold the bracket to the wall and align it to the centerline, marking the pre-drilled hole locations. Remove the bracket, and drill 5⁄16" holes in all mark locations, inserting plastic anchors in each mark. Place the bracket back along the wall and secure it using 1 1⁄2" torx head screws.
The centerline locations of the back wall brackets are entirely dictated by the stall widths as provided on stock drawings. Mark the back wall with vertical lines to indicate the distance of each toilet partition, then mark the back wall with the locations of the bracket and its pre-drilled holes as done in previous steps. Drill 5⁄16" holes in the marked pre-drilled hole locations, place plastic anchors in their respective locations, and then secure appropriately using 1 1⁄2" torx head screws.
Step 3. Attaching Pilaster Shoes to Floor
The center line running parallel to the back wall serves as a reference point for the pilaster shoes. Prior to placement of any pilaster shoes, ensure that gaps between the wall and pilaster edge are accommodated for. Set the pilaster shoe down and mark its location, then align the center line with the center of the pre-drilled holes, marking those locations as well. Remove the pilaster shoe, drill 5⁄16" holes and insert plastic anchors in the drilled holes. Then, replace the pilaster shoe and secure with a 11⁄2" torx screw, and a 1⁄4" washer if needed.
Repeat this process for the remaining pilaster shoes.
Step 4a. Floor to Ceiling Attachment
If no floor-to-ceiling bathroom partitions exist, proceed to step 4b.
Continue to use the pilaster center line as a reference point. Hold the pilaster upright and plumb, placing the ST/ST angle directly behind the pilaster. If a pilaster is between 10 and 24 inches wide, place two brackets 1" away from the pilaster edges. Maintain the position of the ST/ST angle, remove the pilaster, and begin to fasten the angle to the ceiling using 11⁄2" screws. Slide the lip of the sleeve on the bottom/back of the pilaster, but do not fasten. Two 1⁄4" holes are to be drilled into the angle. Drill a 5⁄32" hole, 1⁄2" deep through the pilaster, and then secure it with a 3⁄4" torx screw. Finally, slide the sleeve back to the ceiling, drill a 5⁄32" hole, 1⁄2" through the pilaster, and secure appropriately with a 3⁄4" torx screw.
Step 4b. Ceiling Hung Attachment
It is imperative that all hardware and mounting are fully tightened and correctly placed in a ceiling hung installation. PILASTERS MUST BE ATTACHED TO STRUCTURAL STEEL IN THE CEILING.
Before mounting the pilasters, an aluminum bar stock must be connected. Use 21⁄2" bolts and mounting dowels to do this. Dowels are to be placed into the holes that were drilled through through the face of the pilaster. Turn the dowel with a flat head screwdriver until the groove is vertical, and ensure that it is centered inside of the pilaster. Place 21⁄2" bolts in through pilaster's top and tighten it. Threaded rod is to be attached to the structural steel using 5⁄8" nuts, a 7⁄8" flat washer, and a lock washer — set the rod between 21⁄4" and 23⁄4" below the ceiling. Tighten any hardware connections.
At this point, the aluminum bar stock should be mounted to the pilaster; raise the pilaster to the threaded rod and attach it to the bar stock using 5⁄8" nuts, a 7⁄8" flat washer, and a lock washer. Do not tighten any hardware until the pilaster is confirmed level and vertical — if the pilaster is not level and plumb, use the connections to the bar stock and threaded rod to adjust accordingly. When properly aligned, all nuts can be tightened and the sleeve can be slid up to the finished ceiling, to be fastened with a 3⁄4" torx head fastener.
Step 5. Attaching the Headrail
Before the installation of the headrail, ensure that the cumulative distance of the toilet stalls is accommodated for.
Connect a headrail bracket to the wall by placing the bracket on one end of the headrail, and drilling a 1⁄4" hole to be secured by a torx head sex bolt. Set the headrail on the pilasters, slide it against the wall, and mark the pre-drilled holes in the bracket. Drill a 1⁄4" hole through the headrail, then drill a 1⁄2" deep, 5⁄32" diameter hole into the pilaster. Finally, secure the headrail using a 3⁄4" torx head screw.
Projects including toilet partitions in an alcove configuration may require slightly different methods of calculation.
- If the wall-to-wall measurement and back wall to pilaster measurement have a cumulative total of under 120 inches, then a single headrail can be split into the calculated sizes.
- If the wall-to-wall measurement and back wall to pilaster measurement have a cumulative total of over 120 inches, two headrails will need to be cut to the specified lengths, as headrails do not exceed 120 inches.
- If a turned pilaster exists in the project, three pieces of headrail will need to be cut to specified lengths to cover the distance of the back wall to the pilaster, and each side wall to the pilaster.
Step 6. Crossbracing Ceiling-Hung Pilasters
Crossbracing is an absolute necessity in a ceiling hung configured toilet partition. Lack of crossbracing will nullify the manufacturer warranty.
The crossbracing on a soild plastic toilet partition is placed 82 inches above the floor, behind the pilasters. Crossbrace length varies depending on the location listed in shop drawings. Place the crossbracing on the 68" high brackets and mark the location of the crossbracing touching the wall. Set the 4" angle bracket on the wall and mark the pre-drilled holes, then drill two 5⁄16" holes on the marks, inserting the plastic anchors when completed.
Step 7. Adding 76" Stiffener
Use of a 76" stiffener improves the level of pilaster support.
Using the hinge as a guide, place the stiffener on the inside part of the stall as close as possible to the strike side of the pilaster. Fasten with 3⁄4" torx screws.
Step 8. Installing the Hinge
Installation of hinges varies on the type of hinge that is used. Follow the instructions that correspond to the appropriate hinge used in a given project.
Installers are advised to wear safety eyewear during the installation of hinge pins, as the compression of the springs may forcefully release and cause injury.
Begin the installation of the integral hinge by starting with the bottom supporting hinge: the long cammed pin is inserted into the bottom of the door. Drill a 3⁄32" hole that is 17⁄16" deep into the door — this drilled hole should sit 21⁄2" up from the bottom of the door. Ensure that the drilled hole goes through the cammed pin. Place a set screw into this drilled hole. Then, insert the short cammed pin on the bottom hole of the pilaster's cutout.
To begin the installation of the top hinge, insert spring into the pre-drilled hole on the top of the door, then insert the long pin into the hole as well. Align the door properly into the cutout of the pilaster such that the cammed pins on the bottom of the door touch each other. The long pin sitting on the top of the door should insert into the top of the pilaster cutout. Drill a 3⁄32" hole that has a minimal depth of 17⁄16" to perforate the long pin — this hole should be drilled 1" above the top of the pilaster cutout. Insert a set screw into this drilled hole. At this point, the door should be able to safely rest. Apply pressure on the top of the door to set the cammed pins on the bottom of the door to their appropriate position. Drill an additional hole into the pilaster that sits 21⁄4" below the bottom of the pilaster cutout; this hole will be 3⁄32" in diameter, with a depth of at least 17⁄16" to penetrate the short cammed pin to secure the door.
54" Aluminum Hinge
A normal 54" hinge is mounted at the surface and is fastened with 3⁄4" torx head screws.
For proper mounting placement, make a mark that is 141⁄2" off of the ground to denote the location of the hinge bottom. Ensure that there is an appropriate gap between the door and the pilaster, and then place a mark on the pilaster's top drilled hole for reference. Remove the hinge, and drill a 5⁄32" diameter hole with a depth of 1⁄2" at the previously marked drilled hole. Realign the hinge and fasten accordingly with a 3⁄4" torx head screw, repeating for the rest of the drilled holes when necessary.
ST/ST (Stainless Steel) Hinge
The provided ST/ST hinge is 541⁄2". It is surface-mounted and fastened with 3⁄4" torx screws. All ST/ST hinges are set to have either a 15° opening, or set to close, and any doors that are 30" or higher are required to be set to closed position regardless of swing direction.
To mount the hinge, measure 141⁄2" up from the bottom of the pilaster and mark to indicate the location of the bottom of the hinge. Then, measure inward 17⁄16" and mark parallel to the pilaster edge. Place the hinge against the pilaster at these two marked locations, then make additional markings for the locations of the pre-drilled holes from the hinge onto the pilaster. Remove the hinge, drill 5⁄32" holes that are 1⁄2" deep, then replace the hinge and secure with a 3⁄4" torx head screw. Any remaining holes that sit on the pilaster side of the hinge should be drilled and secured.
The door is to be set 1⁄8" away from the pilaster, 14" off of the ground. Once the door is mounted and set appropriately, secure it to the door using a 3⁄4" torx head screw.
Step 9. Installing Coat Hook & Bumper
The location of the coat hook is determined by two elements: the direction of the door's swing, and whether or not the stall is attempting to meet ADA compliance.
- The coat hook should be installed on the inside of the door, placed in the upper corner that lies opposite of the hinge side.
- To meet ADA requirements, the coat hook needs to be 54" above the floor.
- If ADA is not a concern, the coat hook should be mounted 5" from the top of the door.
- The coat hook will be horizontally centered on the inside of the door.
- If ADA requirements are a concern, the coat hook will need to be placed 54" above the floor.
- Otherwise, the coat hook should be placed 5" below the top of the door.
Bumpers can only be added to outswing doors. They are installed on the top corner opposite the hinge side, 3" from the top of the door. This allows the door to open completely without the pull handle making contact with the wall or partitions.
The coat hook and bumper are set in place by drilling 1⁄2" deep holes, 1⁄8" diameter into the door and securing using #10 x 5⁄8" one-way screws.