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Solid Phenolic

Solid phenolic toilet partitions Solid phenolic inserts Solid phenolic with stainless steel hardware Solid phenolic toilet partition color chart

A Solid Choice For Privacy, Configurability

Phenolic toilet stalls, also referred to as compact laminate bathroom partitions, are perhaps the most versatile and resilient material offered today. This is because these restroom partitions have a solid core, offer a wide variety of colors or pattern options, and, perhaps most significantly, are completely water resistant. Phenolic bathroom stalls are made from layers of Kraft paper that have been infused with resin under intense pressure. The resulting plastic panel is incredibly strong, yet still lightweight, and they are built to last a very long time, hence the 25 year warranty.

Distinctive DuraLine Collection

Partitions Plus offers the DuraLine Series 1080 or 1180 which come with a black core and thicknesses of ½ or ¾-inches. For the panel faces, a classic white is available, but other more dramatic choices include denim blue, pewter mesh, and even a faux-graphite or granite. The jet-black partition edges add bold contrast to almost any color choice. These phenolic bathroom partition products are designed to be in accordance with ATSM E 84 and are rated Class B for 1080 or Class A for 1180. Because of their condensed resin core, solid phenolic bathroom stalls can’t be hurt by steam or soaps, which make them an excellent choice for facilities that also have showers. They can be conveniently power washed without fear of corrosion.

25-Year Replacement Guarantee

DuraLine bathroom partitions carry an industry-leading 25-year guarantee against defects, corrosion, breakage, or delamination. All costs of any returns will be beared and the defective sections will be replaced at no charge. These restroom dividers all come with stainless steel hardware mountings and hinges that can be adjusted for partial opening or self-closing doors. The metal-to-metal contact of the factory-installed inserts can withstand 1500 lbs. of force. Privacy options for these phenolic restroom partitions include Gap-Free Interlocking that eliminates sight-lines along both sides of the doorframe. You may also order extra-long 72-inch doors and panels that have an exceptionally low clearance of just over 4 inches. The one-piece shoe design includes a concealed leveling device, reducing installation issues.

Easy-Clean Surfaces, GREENGUARD Safe

These DuraLine phenolic bathroom stalls are specially coated with a layer of melamine and noted for their ability to be quickly and easily cleaned using only liquid soap. Because of their strong resistance to graffiti, this makes phenolic bathroom dividers popular for use in public institutions. DuraLine models have been Indoor Air Quality Certified by the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute. When you have high-traffic areas with a lot of moisture, it makes sense to choose phenolic bathroom partitions. DuraLine is an affordable solution that will provide years of service to your facility.


Quick Shipping

Quick Ship Information

Solid Phenolic boasts 18 colors in its quick ship program, all of which have a lead time of 10 days. Five of these colors are offered directly on our website: White (949-58), Antique White (S-463-CA), Almond (S-445-CA), Limousine Grey (S-542-CA), and Black (909-58).

Solid Phenolic quick shipment covers all available mounting configurations, so feel free to select the mounting configuration that best suits your needs.

Quick Facts

Click image to see a side by side comparison of all toilet stall materials.



Solid phenolic is somewhat similar in maintenance to high pressure laminate; this is due to the customizable melamine face. The bonded phenolic core gives it a substantial moisture resistance, giving it the capability of hose-down cleaning methods.


    The methods used to clean the bathroom partition differ on the type of soil found on a surface.

  • Smudges, fingerprints, or other residues found on a solid phenolic bathroom stall's surface can be removed with a mild cleaning solution. Smooth surfaces can be cleaned with a cloth and/or sponge; textured surfaces can be cleaned with a soft brush. Rinse thoroughly, and dry.

  • More difficult stains likes oil, crayon, lipstick, or greased soil can be removed with a general purpose cleaner, or a mild degreaser. Dampen either a cloth, sponge, or a soft bristled brush with the corresponding cleaner and apply it to the affected area. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

  • Extremely difficult soiling, like water and soiling, requires a more powerful cleaner than a mild detergent/general purpose cleaner. A bathroom cleaner containing acetic acid is a great choice for removal of the stain. Wet a cloth, sponge, or soft bristled brush with the desired cleaner, and rinse/dry thoroughly.

  • Solid Phenolic bathroom partitions whose surfaces have been affected by graffiti cannot be cleaned with ordinary cleaners and/or detergents. Instead, they have to be appropriately treated with a graffiti remover. Spray or wipe the remover onto the surface with a cloth or sponge, and rinse/dry fully.

We've also create a blog post, specifically written to assist you in cleaning your bathroom dividers the correct way so that no damage will be done to them through the cleaning process. View the section " Solid Phenolic Toilet stalls Cleaning Instructions".

Have some more questions about high pressure laminate toilet stalls? Visit our " Frequently Asked Questions " section.


Privacy options give owners the capability of changing door and panel sizes to more appropriately accommodate for those who want to leave a slightly less viewing space than the normal bathroom stall.


Solid phenolic toilet partitions typically have door and panel heights of 58 inches, with a 12 inch clearance off of the ground for overhead-braced, floor-anchored, and ceiling-hung stalls. Standard gaps exist between doors, panels, and/or stiles of the toilet partition.


The first of two privacy options provided for solid phenolic bathroom partitions is the ability to reduce and effectively remove the standardized gaps that exist between the doors, panels, and stiles. Problematic gaps are mitigated by the inclusion of interlocking door and stile pieces, as opposed to standard pieces. This concept of interlocking causes the viewable sightlines to be blocked, as shown on the image to the right.

    This privacy option is available for the following mounting configurations:

  • Ceiling Hung
  • Floor Anchored
  • Floor to Ceiling
  • Headrail Braced


The second privacy option that exists for solid phenolic restroom partitions is the extension of door and panel heights, removing viewable space under the bathroom partitions. Compared to the standardized door and panel heights, maximum height bathroom stalls increase the height by a substantial 14 inches, for a door and panel size of 72 inches. Additionally, the elevation off of the floor is reduced by over 60% — maximum height compartment privacy brings the restroom partition 4 5⁄16 inches off of the floor.

    Available in:

  • Ceiling Hung
  • Floor Anchored
  • Floor to Ceiling
  • Headrail Braced



Solid phenolic bathroom stalls carry a respectable resistance to physical damage and vandalism. To further complement the capability of vandal-resistance, graffiti can also be removed with a specialized graffiti cleaner.


Even the most particular and picky color choices can be satisfied with a solid phenolic toilet partition — with a selection between three color collections (Wilsonart, Formica, and Nevamar) and over 400 colors to choose from within all of those, surely even the most difficult of design situations can be catered to.


Solid phenolic toilet stalls take fire resistance a step further than their economy-class high pressure laminate counterparts. These bathroom stalls are compliant to ASTM E84 fire resistance standards, minimally ranking as a CLASS B material — calling for minimal spread of flame and/or smoke in the event of a fire. The material can also be modified to comply with CLASS A standards.


In addition to having a strong resistance to general vandalism and physical impacts, solid phenolic toilet stalls have an awesome characteristic that make them stand out: they can be hosed down. The material will not warp in a hose-down situation, because the resin-infused kraft paper coupled with a melamine surface carries an impermeability (resistance to water).


Solid phenolic is a premium toilet partition material that is designed to provide customers with long lasting service. However, they are coupled with a 25 year guarantee in the event that the bathroom stall fails to meet the expected longevity. Rest assured that you will have a long lasting material.


Tools Needed

Before installing a powder coated steel bathroom partition, ensure that you have the following tools:

  • Chalk line
  • Plumb-bob
  • Masking tape
  • Tape measure & pencils
  • Center punch
  • Electric or battery operated drill
  • Drill bits: .166", 3⁄16", 5⁄16", 3⁄8", and 7⁄16"
  • Screwdrivers/screwdriver bits (#2 and #3)
  • Pin-in-head Torx screwdriver (supplied)
  • Shims
  • Adjustable Supports (11⁄2" - 12")
  • Level
  • Wrench; adjustable or 9⁄16"
  • Allen Wrench (5⁄64")
  • Hack saw
  • Safety Glasses


Refer to layout drawings for specific measurements. The stile centerline is used to determine the location of the floor/ceiling anchors. The sum of the panel length (stall depth), and gaps, plus 3⁄8" is equal to the stile centerline. Use the side wall and stile centerlines to obtain the dimensions for floor and ceiling anchors.


    Headrail Braced Floor Anchors
  • Drill a hole with a diameter of 5⁄16" that has a minimum depth of 13⁄4". Any foreign material, debris, or other contents within the hole need to be removed.

  • Insert plastic anchors into the drilled holes, and place shoe retainer brackets at each hole location as well. Then, set the floor L-bracket inside of and on top of each shoe retainer. #14 x 13⁄4 screws are used to hold the L-brackets and retainers in place — however, the screws should not be tightened. All screws should remain loose enough to adjust the L brackets such that they can be moved inside of the stile brackets for measurement purposes. Mark locations of L-brackets and drilled hole locations, then remove the stiles and tighten the floor screws to secure accordingly.

    Floor Anchors
  • Drill a 3⁄8" diameter hole with a depth of 2". Clear any debris and other material inside of this hole.

  • The drilled hole is going to house an anchor with various pieces of hardware above the surface. Begin by placing a flat washer on the wedge anchor, and ensure that it is placed 17⁄8" from the anchor's bottom. Immediately above that, place a flat shoe retainer and hex nut. A second hex nut should be threaded to the top of the anchor. Place the anchor into the whole with the threaded side facing upward, and then hammer the anchor downward until the flat washer is level with the surface. Then, use a wrench to tighten the lower of the two hex nuts until the anchor is firmly set. Finally, spin the top hex nut down and add a washer such that the washer is roughly 1" above the floor. The last hex nut, flat washer, and lock washer should not be added until the stiles have been properly attached to the floor anchor.

  • All other ceiling anchors should be constructed in the same way.

    Ceiling Anchors
    Ensure that all elements in a ceiling hung installation are firmly mounted and tightened.
  • Drill a 7⁄16" diameter hole through the structural beam and insert a threaded rod through it. Attach a bevel washer and lock washer, then screw on a hex nut above the structural beam. The second hex nut is to be installed directly beneath the structural beam, and a spacer should follow below the hex nut. A flat shoe retainer should be added immediately below the finished ceiling with a third hex nut securing it in place. Next, add a fourth hex nut above two flat washers, with the flat washers sitting above and below the stile leveling bar. The installation of the ceiling anchor concludes with the addition of a lock washer below the leveling bar, and a fifth hex nut beneath that.

  • This process can be repeated for any ceiling anchors.


Bracket and post installation is dictated through both the type of hardware being used, and the mounting of the toilet partition in the project.

    Commercial Hardware
  • Using layout drawings as a reference, measure and mark all centerline locations for stiles and panels on walls. Use the wall brackets as a guide for marking the location of all mounting holes — be sure that the brackets are fully plumb prior to marking the locations. A #19 drill bit should be used to create 2" deep holes into the wall backing, and should be secured with #12 x 2" torx wall screws.

    Institutional Hardware
  • Obtain the location of the centerlines for stiles and panels, and mark them accordingly. Set the bracket 121⁄8" off of the floor. Mark the location of the mounting holes plumb, sitting 3⁄4" from the panel's centerline and 7⁄8" from the stile's centerline. #19 drill bits are used to create 2" deep holes into the back of the wall, from which wall brackets are secured with #12 x 2" torx screws.

  • Determine the location of the stainless steel wall post, ensuring that the outside edge of the wall post is inline with the outer edge of the keeping stile. Place the wall post plumb along the side wall with the center of the bottom hole sitting 14" off of the ground and then insert the wall screws, mounting hole plugs, and post end caps in their respective locations. Finally, mount and attach the door.


Add adjustable supports in an appropriate position to support each panel; the supports should sit 12" above the finished floor. Set the panels onto the supports and corresponding wall brackets, but do not secure them.

    Commercial Hardware
  • Establish the centerline locations for the three U or L brackets for each stile, and mark the mounting holes. Any U or L brackets found attached to stiles, a 3⁄16 drill bit is used to make 7⁄16" deep holes. Secure the brackets with #12 x 7⁄16" screw.

    Institutional Hardware
  • Mark the centerlines for continuous U-channel brackets, and use the brackets as guides for marking the location of the mounting holes. Any U-channels that are attached to stiles will have 3⁄16" holes drilled 7⁄16" deep, and will be secured to the stile via #12 x 7⁄16" torx screws.


Set the stiles on the threaded rods of the anchors previously built in Step 2. Floor anchors should have a flat washer, lock washer, and third hex nut added to the threaded rods. Do not tighten the hex nuts. (Note: if working on a ceiling hung installation, this hardware should already be installed.)

Panel edges should be touching the screw heads inside of stile brackets. Using the brackets for reference, drill 3⁄16" diameter holes with a depth of 7⁄16" into the panel and secure with a #12 x 7⁄16" torx screw. Plumb and level stiles and door openings are indicated on layout drawings; once door openings and stiles are level, plumb, and square, proceed to tighten the hex nuts on the stile anchors and secure the panels to the wall brackets using #12 x 7⁄16" screws.


If project does not require installation of headrail braced toilet partitions, skip to the next step.

Begin by measuring the wall to wall distance, minus 1⁄4". If applying to a corner, measure the distance from the wall to 1⁄8" less than the outer edge of the stile, then place the headrail over the stile. Corner and alcove layouts need to have the return headrail cut — take the measurement of the front headrail's inside edge to the back wall, and use the headrail bracket as a template for marking the location of mounting holes on the walls and headrails.

Drill 3⁄16" diameter holes with a depth of 3⁄4" into the front headrail and stiles. Mounting holes for walls should be drilled with a #19 bit, 2" deep. Ensure that there is substantial wall backing before drilling into the wall holes. Fasten headrail to brackets with #12 x 3⁄4" torx screws, and fasten headrail to walls with #12 x 2" torx screws.

The return headrail is to be connected to the front headrail with a headrail bracket and four 7⁄16 torx head screws. Finish off any corner layouts with an end cap. The front headrail can then be fastened to the stile by placing a #12 x 7⁄16" torx head screw.


If the hardware used in the project is not continuous, go to Step 7b.

    Inswing Doors
  • Set the hinge in proper positioning, then fasten it to the door using six 1⁄4−20 x 1⁄2" torx-screws. While supporting the door, fasten the hinge to the stile.
  • At this point, a latch track should be added to the door. Slide the stainless steel latch into the grooves of the latch track — with the latch centered on the track, insert a set screw through the bottom of the track and tighten until it is flush. Then, attach the keeper and clothes hook with two #12 x7⁄16", and attach each stop plate using two 1⁄4−20 x 1⁄2" torx screws.

    Outswing Doors
  • Repeat instructions for installation of hinge, latch track/latch, keeper, clothes hook, and stop plate as found for inswing doors. Use the door as a reference to mark a hole that sits 27" above the bottom of the door and 3" from the edge of the door. Create a mark that indicates the location of the handle's bottom hole. Finally, drill two 3⁄16" diameter holes through the door and attach to the handle outside of the door using 8-32 x 1-1⁄4 torx screws.


    Inswing Doors
  • Prior to installation of the door, double-check the correct orientation of the hinge and verify the direction (left or right) and how it opens (inswing or outswing). Separate the hinge sets and fasten them onto the stile using a driver and a 1⁄4-20 x 1⁄2" torx head screw. The upper half of the hinge is to be fastened to the door — insert a hinge pin and plastic cam on the upper half of the hinge, then lift the door and position it onto the upper stile hinge half. The remaining hinge pin should be inserted in the lower part of the door and mounted.

    Outswing Doors
  • Installation of an outswing door is very similar to the installation of an inswing door. Before mounting the door to all of the hardware, make sure that the hinges are installed with proper orientation and swing direction.


Before installing the stile shoes, verify that the anchor is properly assembled; if not, refer to Step 2 in this installation guide. Find the shoe that best fits the stiles used in the project.

If the stile sits in the open, simply open the end of the shoe and slide it onto the bottom of the stile such that the bottom flange is trapped under the shoe retainer. Align the holes and use a flat head retaining screw through double thickness of the material to close the shoe.

Stile-to-wall installations include a shoe retaining clip that is used to firmly keep the stile shoe in place. To use it, open the stile shoe a minimum of 1", then insert the retaining clip into the hole that lies in the inner leaf the shoe until it snaps appropriately into place. Then, open the end of the shoe and slide it onto the bottom of the stile to trap the bottom flange underneath the shoe retainer. If installed correctly, the shoe retaining clip will lie against the wall. Close shoe edges to make the last hole snap on the retaining clip.


This step is only necessary if stiles attached to the side wall or end panel are 16", 18", 20", or 24". The support bracket is installed at the highest point at the top of the stile for floor-anchored configurations, and inversely, installed at the lowest point at the bottom of the stile for ceiling-hung configurations. The support bracket is secured to the stile using a #12 x 3⁄4 panel screw.

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