Product / Info
HDPE is Safe for Kids, Environment
There’s a reason they’re called Resistall. These plastic hybrid bathroom partitions are strong, never need painting, won’t decay, rust, or corrode, and always end up looking good. Best of all, this partition package comes at a very affordable price. Resistall partition pieces are constructed from two pieces of 1/8-inch high-density polyethylene (HDPE) that are fused together to create a structure that’s incredibly tough, yet the hollow core makes them especially lightweight. The supporting pilasters, however, are a solid 1-inch thick and the units come in three homogeneous colors (black, grey, beige) with a stylish design that belies their low list price.
The HDPE Difference
HDPE is not as expensive as the materials commonly used in other bathroom stalls, but there are also many other reasons why Resistall relies on it. First of all, HDPE is non-porous. That means not only does it not absorb odor, but they are impenetrable to moisture. Resistall panels never peel or get mold and mildew, resulting in a cleaner, healthier bathroom environment. In fact, tests show 98.4% of MRSA bacteria dies within 24 hours without any cleaning. That’s germ-resistant! HDPE is also very tough. The orange peel texture is scratch resistant and its built-in color lessens signs of wear and tear. You don’t need to use industrial strength products to get rid of graffiti: HDPE can be cleaned with ordinary non-abrasive solutions. And HDPE has been shown in tests to have 59 times greater resistance to impact than metal.
Sustainable, Recyclable, Kid-Friendly
Resistall toilet stalls are GREENGUARD Children and Schools certified, which means they pass stringent material and cleaning requirements and can be safely used in these environments. Resistall uses 25 – 75% pre-consumer recycled content. These bathroom partitions are also available in 100% post-consumer materials for stall orders of 40 or more that can give you more points towards LEED certification. Resistall restroom partitions are backed by a 5-year warranty, which eliminates the worry about replacing them for a while. And when their life cycle is up, they are 100% recyclable. Their manufacturer, Scranton Products, can arrange for their return and re-use, saving them from going to the landfill.
Easy, No-Hassle Install
On top of everything, Resistall HDPE restroom dividers’ are of a lightweight design and have quality aluminum fasteners that will make the installation quick and painless. With a clear instruction manual and requiring no special tools, we’ve clocked installs at less than 20 minutes. Because they never need painting or heavy-duty cleaning, you will save money on costly maintenance and will always have bathroom stalls that perform and look pristine. If you'd like to clean them say for a spring cleaning, you can power wash or steam clean them, no need for harmful chemical cleaners.
Quick Ship Information
Resistall Plastic's simplistic color choices make it an ideal candidate for speedy shipment. Resistall Plastic bathroom partitions are only manufactured in three colors: black, grey, and beige. All Resistall Plastic partitions have a relatively quick lead time of 5 days.
Click image to see a side by side comparison of all toilet stall materials.
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
Another member of the HDPE family, Resistall plastic toilet partitions can retain their appearance with minimal maintenance. High-density polyethylene is a very strong material that can hold its own against physical damage and impact.
If the material gets a cut or scratch, it is very easily repaired. With a smooth or rounded object, burnish the surface by applying light pressure to the affected area. Continue to rub until the cut or scratch has healed.
Cleaning is a simple process on a Resistall plastic bathroom partition. It is a low-hassle material that if cleaned and maintained properly, will reduce costs in the long run.
- For mild stains/general soiling, the appearance of the surface can be restored by using a mild cleaner and water.
- Tougher stains can be counteracted by the usage of a cleaning solution that contains 2⁄3 cup of trisodium phosphate, 1⁄2 cup of household detergent, and a gallon of water.
- If those solutions are not viable, a non-abrasive industrial-strength cleaner will do the job without damaging the surface of the bathroom partition.
We've also create a blog post, specifically written to assist you in cleaning your toilet stalls the correct way so that no damage will be done to them through the cleaning process. View the section " Resistall Toilet Partition Cleaning Instructions".
Have some more questions about Resistall bathroom stalls? Visit our " Frequently Asked Questions " section.
Resistall has various levels of privacy available, any questions you may have about privacy options for this material, call or email us about it.
SUBSTANTIAL DURABILITY: TOP OF THE LINE
The usage of two fused 1⁄8 inch pieces of high-density polyethylene in Resistall plastic bathroom partitions provides a great resistance to damage and vandalism.
ECOLOGICALLY EFFECTIVE: A GREEN SOLUTION
Resistall plastic toilet partitions are always made from recycled materials, and are 100% recyclable themselves. Additionally, they contain anywhere from 25% to 100% pre-consumer recycled content, and are available in 100% post-consumer recycled material as well. Anyone seeking LEED certification will benefit largely from the installation of these restroom partitions.
WATER-PROOF: WILL NOT RETAIN WATER OR MOISTURE
High-density polyethylene is by definition, invulnerable to water and/or moisture damages. Water cannot get into the substrate of the restroom partition, so owners will never have to worry about the restroom partition warping. Delamination and rusting are also not problematic, either.
SPEEDY LEAD TIME: GET MATERIALS QUICKLY
Resistall plastic toilet dividers have a lead time of only 5 days (not including transit time to the customer), presenting a great opportunity for those who need their materials quickly.
LOW-COST UP FRONT; HIGH-VALUE IN RETURN
Resistall plastic is a relatively inexpensive material, and is a sensible selection for owners who have a tight budget. As a result of purchasing this bathroom partition, customers can look forward to a simplistic installation, an easier installation, and simple maintenance.
A GOOD GUARANTEE FOR A GOOD PRODUCT
Resistall plastic bathroom stalls are reasonably durable partitions. In the event where they fail to meet the standard of durability that is expected within their life cycle, every Resistall partition comes with a 5 year warranty.
- Chalk line
- Tape Measure
- Phillips Head Screwdriver
- Flat Head Screwdriver
- Adjustable Wrench
- Jigsaw (or Hacksaw)
- Power Drill
- 5⁄16" masonry bit
- 3⁄32", 5⁄32", and 1⁄4" metal bits
- T27 torx bit (supplied)
- 14" x 14" spacer block
Throughout the installation, ensure that the toilet partition doors are properly oriented with the larger rectangular shape on top.
STEP 1: CENTERLINES
Find the centerline of the pilasters by measuring the distance from the back wall to the stall depth (differentiated by shop drawings). Once this distance has been measured, draw a line parallel to the back wall 1⁄2" closer — for example, if a measure to the back wall is 72", draw the line at 711⁄2". Then, place a mark on the perpendicular wall that is 70" off of the floor. These measurements denote the center lines for shoe and bracket connections.
STEP 2: SIDE/BACK WALL BRACKETS
On the side wall, make two marks in the following locations: 42" off of the floor and 66" off of the floor. The location of the third mark is dictated by the type of brackets used — if stirrup brackets are used, make the third mark 17" off of the floor; if continous brackets are used, make the third mark 141⁄2" off of the floor. These correspond to the centers of pre-drilled holes for brackets. Hold brackets against the wall and line drilled holes up with the previously marked locations, then mark the location of the holes themselves. After establishing the correct location for the bracket's pre-drilled holes, remove the bracket from the wall and drill 5⁄16" holes in the corresponding locations. Insert plastic anchors in the respective marks and replace the bracket, securing it to the wall using 11⁄2" torx head screws.
Begin to create marks on the back wall that coincide with stall widths as indicated on shop drawings. The marked widths will serve as centerlines for brackets used on the back wall. Line up the bracket's pre-drilled holes based off of the previously determined locations for shoe and bracket connections, ensuring that the centerline occurs within the center of the pre-drilled holes. Mark the locations of the brackets and their pre-drilled holes, and mount them using provided plastic anchors and torx head screws.
STEP 3: ATTACHING PILASTER SHOES TO FLOOR
Place the pilaster shoe over the centerline ensuring that the centerline rests in the center of the pre-drilled holes, marking the location of the shoes and pre-drilled holes accordingly. After marking all necessary locations, remove the pilaster shoe and drill ⁄ holes and insert provided plastic anchors. Place the shoe back in the corresponding marked location and secure with 11⁄2" torx screws, and 1⁄4" washer if necessary. Repeat this process for as many pilaster shoes existing in the project.
STEP 4: INSTALLING PILASTERS
Place the first pilaster in the side wall bracket and first shoe that were installed earlier. With the pilaster fully level and plumb, drill 1⁄4" holes through the pilaster. Secure the brackets/panels using the torx head sex bolts. Then, set the first panel 1" from the back wall, using the 14" x 14" spacer to keep the panel balanced. Make sure that the panel is perfectly vertical and leveled — then drill 1⁄4" holes through the panel, again, using the pre-drilled holes in the brackets as a guide. Secure the panel using torx head sex bolts.
For subsequent pilasters, lay on a flat surface and measure from edge of the pilaster to the pilaster split as indicated on shop drawings and mark at the proper position. These marks will serve as point of installation for the brackets — center the bracket over this mark and fasten the bracket. Drill a 5⁄32" hole, with a 1⁄2 inch depth, and then insert a 3⁄4" torx screw into the hole to secure the bracket in position.
The pilaster and bracket should be placed in a pilaster shoe, keeping it vertical with a 1⁄2 gap between the pilaster and panel edge. Proceed by drilling 1⁄4" holes through the panel, using the bracket's pre-drilled holes as a guide. Secure the pilaster to the panel with torx head sex bolts.
Repeat this process for as many pilasters existing in the project.
STEP 5: ATTACHING THE HEADRAIL
Prior to the installation of the headrail, measure the distance that is required for the headrail to cover the entirety of the toilet stalls.
To connect a headrail bracket to the wall, place a headrail bracket on one end of the headrail and then drill a 1⁄4" hole, securing with a torx head sex bolt. Next, place the headrail against the wall and mark the bracket's pre-drilled holes onto the wall, then remove the headrail and drill 5⁄16" holes for the plastic anchors. Insert the plastic anchors, and place the headrail back against the wall. Secure the headrail to the wall by using 11⁄2" torx head screws.
Connect the headrail to a pilaster by drilling a 1⁄4" hole centered on the pilaster through the headrail — then, through that hole, drill a 1⁄2" deep, 5⁄32" diameter hole, and secure the headrail to the pilaster using a 3⁄4" torx head screw.
Bathroom dividers using alcove configurations may require slightly different methods for installation.
If the sum of the wall to wall measurement and back wall to panel measurement is less than 120 inches,
a single headrail piece can be trimmed and mounted to the pilaster.
If the sum of the wall to wall measurement and back wall to panel measurement is greater than 120 inches,
two separate headrails will need to be used during installation.
If an turned pilaster exists with an inline headrail, three pieces of headrail will be used.
STEP 6: ADDING 76" STIFFENER
For pilasters that span 30 inches or larger on the strike side, a 76" stiffener is used to provide added support. Refer to shop drawings for locations of stiffeners. On the inside of the bathroom partition, place the stiffener as close to the pilaster's hinge side as possible. Then, simply fasten using 3⁄4" torx screw.
STEP 7: INSTALLING HINGES
If installing an 8" hinge, view the separate information provided with the 8" hinge packages for installation and field settings.
54" Continuous Hinge
54" aluminum hinges are surface mounted and fastened with 3⁄4" torx head screws. Every hinge has a removable cover that is applied after mounting, and then set with a setscrew. To mount, mark the pilaster 141⁄2" from the floor to indicate the location of the hinge bottom. Then, place another mark on the pilaster for the top-drilled hole of the hinge. Remove the hinge, drill a 5⁄32" that is 1⁄2" deep at the mark, then replace the hinge and fasten with a 3⁄4" torx head screw. Repeat this process for any remaining holes.
54 1⁄2" Continuous ST/ST Helix Hinge
ST/ST 541⁄2" hinges are surface mounted and fastened with 3⁄4" torx head screws. They are set to either be closed, or 15° open. Any doors that are 30" or larger must have the door's hinge set to the closed position, regardless of the door's swing. To mount, measure 141⁄2" from the bottom of the pilaster, and mark to indicate the location of the hinge bottom. From one edge of the pilaster, measure 1 7⁄16" towards the center and make a mark parallel to the pilaster's edge. Then, place the hinge on the pilaster on the two marks, and mark the hinge's pre-drilled holes on the pilaster. Take the hinge off of the pilaster, and drill 1⁄2" deep, 5⁄32" diameter over the marked pre-drilled holes and secure accordingly with 3⁄4" torx head screw. Set the door 14" above the floor with the necessary 1⁄8" gap between the pilaster and the door, and then secure the hinge.
STEP 8: INSTALLING COAT HOOK & BUMPER
Instructions for coat hooks vary depending on the door's swing direction.
For doors that are in swing:
The coat hook is to be installed on the inside of the door, in the upper corner that is opposite from the side of the hinge. If pursuing ADA compliance, the coat hook should be placed 54" above the floor. Otherwise, the coat hook should be 5" down below the top of the door.
For doors that are out swing:
The coat hook is to be installed in the center of the door. To maintain ADA compliance, the coat hook should be placed 54" above the floor. If ADA compliance is not a requirement, the coat hook should be placed 5" below the top of the door. Bumpers are only supplied for out swing doors, and are typically installed 3" down from the top of the door, on the corner across from the hinge. To secure the coat hook and bumper, drill 1⁄2" deep, 1⁄8" diameter. Secure this with #10x5⁄8" one-way screws.